Category Archives: Denim

In Detail – 2/15/2012

There’s just some brands that work so well together, and Post Overalls and Engineered Garments always works. I think it’s more so the sizing matching up properly since both Daiki and Takeshi design their garments rather unfitting. Since I’ve been back from New York I just can’t go two days without throwing the Post vest on. I’m giving my Tellasons a breather and starting to break in these Rogue Territory Stantons, done up in 15oz Cone Mills red-line denim.

 

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Filed under Denim, Engineered Garments, In Detail, Made in USA, Post Overalls, Red Wing Boots, Shirts

Up close: RRL Wrangler Trucker Jacket

A reproduction of a vintage Wrangler denim jacket done by RRL, the “heritage” side of Polo Ralph Lauren. A gem that my lady and I were lucky enough to find and obtain for almost nothing. This is one of the most well thought-out garments I’ve ever seen, everything from the top-notch construction, to the historical accuracy of the details. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to find the mens version yet… but it’s to nice to not mention.

  • Entire jacket is done in a pre-distressed 14oz selvedge denim
  • Chain-stitch construction on all seams
  • Cowhide patch
  • Side-buckles on the waist for fit adjustment
  • Copper rivets at stress points
  • Made in the USA

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Filed under Denim, Made in USA, RRL

The Little Details: Selvedge Denim

Selvedge or selvage, either way you care to spell the word is acceptable. The terms come from “self-edge” which refers to the edge on a roll of fabric. Those colored threads you see on the selvedge outseams are actually used to help mills differentiate between fabrics. Selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle-looms, which can only produce fabric rolls that were 30 inches wide. Using the fabric rolls end to end, the selvedge lining ends up on the outseams of the jeans, leaving it visible when the denim is cuffed. When the demand for denim increased, a lot of companies abandoned the shuttle mills due to the limits on the amount of fabric it could yield – and moved to projectile looms. These projectile looms could make more denim, and make it faster – but the quality wasn’t as high as the old school methods. Cone Mills is one of the few remaining mills in the United States that is still making denim on vintage shuttle looms; and they’ve been doing it since 1905. They’re responsible for the denim used by brands like Tellason and Rogue Territory. Beyond just the traditional way of weaving the fabric, selvedge denim is of much higher quality, heavier weight, and typically dyed with natural indigo, rather than synthetic dyeing techniques. All in all, a better pair of denim that will stick around for a long time, and look better after each time you wear them.

**I know this has been covered by a lot of blogs/shops – but I wanted to share it here for my readers. The knowledge on selvedge denim is pretty universal, but if you feel I’ve copied you – feel free to shoot me an e-mail: ryan [at] simplethreads [dot] com

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Filed under Denim, The Little Details

The Little Details: Chainstitching

I guess maybe I’m just a super nerd about garment construction, but I think that it’s important to understand old-world techniques, and why those techniques are still sought after today. The little details that made a pair of jeans last 3 years instead of 3 months, or kept a work shirt together wash after wash. This is all about the way things used to be.

The original standard for hemming a pair of denim was the chainstitch, which is a looped stitch resembling the links of a chain. The forms a very sturdy and heavyweight stitch that not only allows for a more sturdy cuff on your denim, but it’s also visually appealing and noticeable if you’re wearing a single-cuff. The Union Special 43200G was the first machine that was able to do this type of stitching, and the majority of your denim shops (Self Edge, Super Denim, Rogue Territory) still use this exact machine to hem denim. A chainstitched hem will also cause a “roping” effect on the jeans, causing the denim to warp around the hem due to the stitch; this really becomes visible after a few washes and some heavy wear.

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Filed under Denim, The Little Details

Rogue Territory Dbl. Indigo Workshirt

I’m pretty sure this was the first thing I wrote about, a little more than a year ago when I first started Simple Threads. I’ve been wearing this shirt tons since then, and I thought it looked worn enough to snap a few photos of. It’s held up amazingly well, mainly due to the strict quality standards behind all of Karl’s (the one-man operation behind Rogue Territory) designs. The shirt is made from a heavyweight Japanese denim, that is dip-dyed in natural indigo. Triple-stitching throughout the entire garment, heavy duty buttons that show no signs of coming off anytime soon. Hands down the toughest shirt I’ll ever own. These are not available at this very moment, but Karl has hinted that we’ll see a slightly different iteration of this shirt coming out later this year.

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Filed under Denim, Rogue Territory, Shirts

Tellason x Simple Threads Giveaway

I’ve been extremely stoked on the new 14.75oz red-line Tellason’s that are just now surfacing. What makes these unique is the fact they are constructed from an exclusive denim made just for Tellason by Cone Mills of NC. A beautiful fabric with an amazing indigo-y hue in a nice weight fabric that will definitely fade amazingly. Made in America goodness, all the way down to the buttons, rivets, and the patch made from my friends over at Tanner Goods.  There’s really not much I can say about these jeans that I haven’t already said, I just wanted to give someone a chance to own a pair of the new denim – in whatever fit, and in whatever size they want. Good luck!

The fits:

John Graham Mellor: The signature fit. Mid-rise. Slim-straight leg with a tapered opening.

Ladbroke Grove: The new mid-rise slim fitting model. Tapered opening.

Ankara Straight: A straight fit jean with more room in the thighs & the seat. Modeled after the collaboration between ACL & Tellason.

Q&A with Tony himself:

Q: The majority of your denim is sourced through Cone Mills – was it important to use a domestically produced denim for Tellason? Or was there more to it?

A: Yes and yes.  We really respect what Japanese mills create when it comes to denim fabric, there’s certainly no denying the beauty of their fabrics and the passion they put into it.  That said, it is our opinion that using US-made fabric is the right thing to do.  Not only does Cone White Oak fabric age well, it also performs really well with regard to shrinkage and stretching due to their superior sanforization (many thanks to the house of Strauss for that), but if we love the idea of the White Oak mill and it’s history, it is our duty to support it and help keep the jobs in Greensboro, NC.  Additionally, shipping fabric from Japan, either via boat or plane is very expensive and our jeans would certainly retail for significantly more if we used imported fabric.

Q: So what’s next? Anything new on the horizon?

A: Yes. As we speak, we have a denim shirt, weekender bag with Tanner Goods, and a collaboration with Smith+Butler in the works.  Our core will always be our three fits in our two fabrics, but it is fun and interesting to do these other projects.  Another, potentially very interesting project is in the beginning stages now and hopefully it will come to be every thing we hope it to be.

Q: Tellason jeans are cut & sewn right in San Francisco – where you & Pete both live – Was it important for you guys to be able to have this much visibility of your manufacturing?

A: Absolutely. We’re in the factory almost every day and have the ability to monitor every aspect of the process. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

How to enter:

  1. Follow @simplethreads on twitter
  2. Follow @tellason on twitter
  3. Follow simplethreads.tumblr.com
  4. Follow tellason.tumblr.com
  5. Retweet the following message “Tellason x Simple Threads Giveaway – http://tinyurl.com/42b74vz
  6. Reblog this post on Tumblr: http://tinyurl.com/4xn8r87
  7. Comment here with your twitter/tumblr alias so I can make sure you’re eligible.

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Filed under Denim, Made in USA, Tanner Goods, Tellason, Uncategorized

Tellason “First Cuts” @ 1 month

Denim evolution at 1 month? Extremely silly. I know, but I can’t help but say these are the quickest fading jeans I have ever worn. The denim is a discontinued Cone Mills denim that Tony & Pete used for their first run of jeans. It’s a 13.75oz denim with a redish-purple hue to it, Cone labels it the “Memphis” shade. I’ll be wearing these daily until they fall apart. It’ll be really interesting to see how these look when put next to a pair of Tellason’s my pal Clark Griffiths just started wearing. Two completely different types of Cone Denim that started being worn on the same day.

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Filed under Denim, Tellason

LVC 1966 501’s

The search is finally over. I have wanted to pick up a pair of pre-distressed jeans for awhile now. I love my raw Tellason’s, but every now and then I do enjoy a different shade of indigo. I came about a pair of LVC 1966 501’s in a 34×34 and decided to try them out. The fit is a classic 501 straight leg, with a slightly tapered hem. They’re constructed from a 14oz Cone Mills red line selvedge denim with a lot of awesome vintage details that are historically accurate for that year in jeans. The 1966 model of the 501 symbolizes the first year that Levi’s finally started using bar tack’s rather than rivets on the back pockets of their jeans. This was done to stop blue jeans from scratching furniture once the rivet became exposed. These jeans also have the big “E” on the red tab, which was done away with four years later. The back pockets have the sewn in double arcuate, which is far from perfect looking – this was done to show the use of a single needle sewing machine. The wash on these shows a beautifully worn in pair of blue jeans, and how amazing Cone Mills denim fades over time. I am even more stoked to have my Tellason’s look like these someday.

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Filed under Denim, Levi's

Tellason, Tellason, Tellason…

For the last two years I have been trying to get myself in better shape, unfortunately – this makes it hard to really wear in a pair of denim. I’ve went from a size 40, all the way down to a 34 – which is where I’ll be staying. I’ve stuck with Tellason all the way from the beginning… so, heres to wearing in these size 34’s in properly. Thanks again, Tellason – for hooking me up with one of the last pairs of their first run of denim. They have a good home here… a long with the 3 other pairs.

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Filed under Denim, Tellason

Tellason Jeans @ 4 Months

I have been a really big supporter of Tellason since I first met my good internet pal, Michael Andersen. I was in the market for a new pair of American made selvedge denim that made up to a size 38 waist, a good fit that flattered even the bigger waist sizes, authentic details, and Cone Denim. I did my research on the brand, and was impressed that the jeans were 100% American made, every step of the way. From the materials, to the production itself.

  • 12.5oz White Oak Denim (Greensboro, NC)
  • Natural Leather Patch (Portland, OR)
  • Antique Hardware (Kentucky)

The denim is cut & sewn in downtown San Francisco, CA, and quality controlled by Tony and Pete (the minds behind Tellason.) The end product is plain and simple: a durable pair of jeans, authentic details, and a great fit. Nothing more, nothing less. The details on these jeans are inspired by vintage denim, back before it was mass produced.

  • Canvas reinforced pocket lining
  • Chain-stitched hem
  • Hidden “Legal” tab in the back pocket (Levi copyrighted the red tab on jeans)
  • Antique copper rivets
  • Button fly
  • Oversized coin pocket
  • Hand-burnished leather patch by the boys at Tanner Goods

I’m now on my second pair of Tellason’s and am hoping I can wear these ones for years to come. Here are some photos of a pair of sz. 36’s after 4 months of everyday wear, a normal wash and air dry.

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Filed under Daily Necessities, Denim, Lifestyle, Tanner Goods, Tellason