When I think of duck canvas, I think of my grandfather always wearing these Carhartt double knee’d loggers s for work. He’d wear them to hell and back before they gave way and he had to replace them. That’s the beauty of duck canvas, it’s tough as nails and perfect for a pair of pants you can beat up or dress up. This duck is quite special though, a limited make up from the historic Cone Mills of Greensboro, NC. Natural selvedge duck canvas that has cotton seeds woven into the fabric. The weight and feel of these is similar to a pair of raw denim, but with better breathability. The fabric is 12oz’s, and will definitely soften up after some wear. I haven’t got to start wearing mine yet, as I had to keep them clean for a wedding I was attending… but now that has come and gone, so I can start breaking them in.
As with all of Left Field’s trousers, these are made extremely well in a small factory in San Fransisco. Bar-tacking at stress points, corozo nut buttons, chambray pocket bags, and a chain-stitched waist band. These details may go unnoticed by a lot of people, but it’s what makes these wear the way they do, and last the way they do. Since I’ve started simple threads I’ve developed such a respect for the craftsmanship that goes into making something, even if it is “just a pair of pants.”
Available at the Left Field online shop. Tons of photos, tried my best to capture the fabric itself.
Another camera, another In Detail’s post. The 5D will be back this week, and I’ve got a couple of things I’d like to shoot – so until then! This HBT (herringbone twill) camouflage hunting jacket was a flea-market find that I stumbled upon yesterday for $10 bucks. It’s vintage “Ted Williams Approved” for Sears Roebucks. I will post the details about it when I’ve got a suitable camera. It fits almost perfect, and is in great shape. I’ve loved this fabric and although there’s been a huge uprising of brands using it lately, it’s still a classic. More history behind it can be found over at ACL - so read up if you’re into that kind of stuff. Imogene + Willie Ebbet’s Field Flannels cap, Post O’alls Cruzer vest, and a Woolrich Woolen Mills Knockabout shirt is everything else I’ve got on. I’ve been alternating between my Tellasons and these Rogue Territory Stantons’ to get them broken in before the hotter weather comes this way. And, yet again… Red Wing 8131 Moc-toes.
I was glad to finally be able to give this to the lady for the holidays! A reproduction of an old denim Engineer jacket with awesome details done up by RRL. Constructed out of what seems to be Cone Mills denim, with numerous fabric repairs that our patched with contrasting denim. Non-visible blue-line selvedge details on the inner placket & pockets. Reinforced canvas lining on all of the pockets, and a really awesome side-entry pocket watch pocket. Since this is a women’s jacket, they used a pink thread for the bar-tracking and chain stitching. A really nice vintage inspired piece, made in San Francisco and dead-on accurate. The repairs at the arm openings hint that it got caught in machinery and ripped.
Selvedge or selvage, either way you care to spell the word is acceptable. The terms come from “self-edge” which refers to the edge on a roll of fabric. Those colored threads you see on the selvedge outseams are actually used to help mills differentiate between fabrics. Selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle-looms, which can only produce fabric rolls that were 30 inches wide. Using the fabric rolls end to end, the selvedge lining ends up on the outseams of the jeans, leaving it visible when the denim is cuffed. When the demand for denim increased, a lot of companies abandoned the shuttle mills due to the limits on the amount of fabric it could yield – and moved to projectile looms. These projectile looms could make more denim, and make it faster – but the quality wasn’t as high as the old school methods. Cone Mills is one of the few remaining mills in the United States that is still making denim on vintage shuttle looms; and they’ve been doing it since 1905. They’re responsible for the denim used by brands like Tellason and Rogue Territory. Beyond just the traditional way of weaving the fabric, selvedge denim is of much higher quality, heavier weight, and typically dyed with natural indigo, rather than synthetic dyeing techniques. All in all, a better pair of denim that will stick around for a long time, and look better after each time you wear them.
**I know this has been covered by a lot of blogs/shops – but I wanted to share it here for my readers. The knowledge on selvedge denim is pretty universal, but if you feel I’ve copied you – feel free to shoot me an e-mail: ryan [at] simplethreads [dot] com
I’ve been extremely stoked on the new 14.75oz red-line Tellason’s that are just now surfacing. What makes these unique is the fact they are constructed from an exclusive denim made just for Tellason by Cone Mills of NC. A beautiful fabric with an amazing indigo-y hue in a nice weight fabric that will definitely fade amazingly. Made in America goodness, all the way down to the buttons, rivets, and the patch made from my friends over at Tanner Goods. There’s really not much I can say about these jeans that I haven’t already said, I just wanted to give someone a chance to own a pair of the new denim – in whatever fit, and in whatever size they want. Good luck!
John Graham Mellor: The signature fit. Mid-rise. Slim-straight leg with a tapered opening.
Ladbroke Grove: The new mid-rise slim fitting model. Tapered opening.
Ankara Straight: A straight fit jean with more room in the thighs & the seat. Modeled after the collaboration between ACL & Tellason.
Q&A with Tony himself:
Q: The majority of your denim is sourced through Cone Mills – was it important to use a domestically produced denim for Tellason? Or was there more to it?
A: Yes and yes. We really respect what Japanese mills create when it comes to denim fabric, there’s certainly no denying the beauty of their fabrics and the passion they put into it. That said, it is our opinion that using US-made fabric is the right thing to do. Not only does Cone White Oak fabric age well, it also performs really well with regard to shrinkage and stretching due to their superior sanforization (many thanks to the house of Strauss for that), but if we love the idea of the White Oak mill and it’s history, it is our duty to support it and help keep the jobs in Greensboro, NC. Additionally, shipping fabric from Japan, either via boat or plane is very expensive and our jeans would certainly retail for significantly more if we used imported fabric.
Q: So what’s next? Anything new on the horizon?
A: Yes. As we speak, we have a denim shirt, weekender bag with Tanner Goods, and a collaboration with Smith+Butler in the works. Our core will always be our three fits in our two fabrics, but it is fun and interesting to do these other projects. Another, potentially very interesting project is in the beginning stages now and hopefully it will come to be every thing we hope it to be.
Q: Tellason jeans are cut & sewn right in San Francisco - where you & Pete both live – Was it important for you guys to be able to have this much visibility of your manufacturing?
A: Absolutely. We’re in the factory almost every day and have the ability to monitor every aspect of the process. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
How to enter:
Denim evolution at 1 month? Extremely silly. I know, but I can’t help but say these are the quickest fading jeans I have ever worn. The denim is a discontinued Cone Mills denim that Tony & Pete used for their first run of jeans. It’s a 13.75oz denim with a redish-purple hue to it, Cone labels it the “Memphis” shade. I’ll be wearing these daily until they fall apart. It’ll be really interesting to see how these look when put next to a pair of Tellason’s my pal Clark Griffiths just started wearing. Two completely different types of Cone Denim that started being worn on the same day.