I never really thought of my blog as a fashion blog, and the more and more I continue forward with Simple Threads, the more I realize that it isn’t. It’s just a photographic journal of well made American clothing from some amazing brands with rich history. I’m not by any means fashionable, and I honestly am fine with that. I just like to share the wear & tear of the stuff I own. To show everyone else why it’s worth the extra money for nice stuff.
Another camera, another In Detail’s post. The 5D will be back this week, and I’ve got a couple of things I’d like to shoot – so until then! This HBT (herringbone twill) camouflage hunting jacket was a flea-market find that I stumbled upon yesterday for $10 bucks. It’s vintage “Ted Williams Approved” for Sears Roebucks. I will post the details about it when I’ve got a suitable camera. It fits almost perfect, and is in great shape. I’ve loved this fabric and although there’s been a huge uprising of brands using it lately, it’s still a classic. More history behind it can be found over at ACL - so read up if you’re into that kind of stuff. Imogene + Willie Ebbet’s Field Flannels cap, Post O’alls Cruzer vest, and a Woolrich Woolen Mills Knockabout shirt is everything else I’ve got on. I’ve been alternating between my Tellasons and these Rogue Territory Stantons’ to get them broken in before the hotter weather comes this way. And, yet again… Red Wing 8131 Moc-toes.
There’s just some brands that work so well together, and Post Overalls and Engineered Garments always works. I think it’s more so the sizing matching up properly since both Daiki and Takeshi design their garments rather unfitting. Since I’ve been back from New York I just can’t go two days without throwing the Post vest on. I’m giving my Tellasons a breather and starting to break in these Rogue Territory Stantons, done up in 15oz Cone Mills red-line denim.
Alright, time to switch it up a bit. I wanted the photos of me actually wearing stuff to be more detailed, so I’ll be going in that direction from this day forward. Details are so important, and my aesthetic is based primarily off of them, functionality, and just being comfortable.
Hat: Ebbets Field (New color way in the works)
Jacket: Woolrich Woolen Mills (Daiki Era) Khaki Poplin Parka
Shirt: Engineered Garments Chambray Work Shirt
Pants: Rogue Territory Indigo Work Trousers
Shoes: New Balance 992
Bag: Filson Zipper Tote
Selvedge or selvage, either way you care to spell the word is acceptable. The terms come from “self-edge” which refers to the edge on a roll of fabric. Those colored threads you see on the selvedge outseams are actually used to help mills differentiate between fabrics. Selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle-looms, which can only produce fabric rolls that were 30 inches wide. Using the fabric rolls end to end, the selvedge lining ends up on the outseams of the jeans, leaving it visible when the denim is cuffed. When the demand for denim increased, a lot of companies abandoned the shuttle mills due to the limits on the amount of fabric it could yield – and moved to projectile looms. These projectile looms could make more denim, and make it faster – but the quality wasn’t as high as the old school methods. Cone Mills is one of the few remaining mills in the United States that is still making denim on vintage shuttle looms; and they’ve been doing it since 1905. They’re responsible for the denim used by brands like Tellason and Rogue Territory. Beyond just the traditional way of weaving the fabric, selvedge denim is of much higher quality, heavier weight, and typically dyed with natural indigo, rather than synthetic dyeing techniques. All in all, a better pair of denim that will stick around for a long time, and look better after each time you wear them.
**I know this has been covered by a lot of blogs/shops – but I wanted to share it here for my readers. The knowledge on selvedge denim is pretty universal, but if you feel I’ve copied you – feel free to shoot me an e-mail: ryan [at] simplethreads [dot] com
I’m pretty sure this was the first thing I wrote about, a little more than a year ago when I first started Simple Threads. I’ve been wearing this shirt tons since then, and I thought it looked worn enough to snap a few photos of. It’s held up amazingly well, mainly due to the strict quality standards behind all of Karl’s (the one-man operation behind Rogue Territory) designs. The shirt is made from a heavyweight Japanese denim, that is dip-dyed in natural indigo. Triple-stitching throughout the entire garment, heavy duty buttons that show no signs of coming off anytime soon. Hands down the toughest shirt I’ll ever own. These are not available at this very moment, but Karl has hinted that we’ll see a slightly different iteration of this shirt coming out later this year.
Literally, I’ve worked like fifteen hours of overtime these last two weeks and some of that extra cash flow went to buy this gem: Rogue Territory Dbl. Indigo work shirt.
I’ve been following Rogue Territory for awhile and finally decided to make my first (of many, I’m sure – those Work Trousers are calling my name.) RT is the denim-child of Karl Thoennessen, mostly known for it’s custom denim program – which allows the customer (with Karl’s help) to put together a 100% custom pair of denim, crafted to fit their body type using the denim, hardware, and wash that the they want. RT has delved into more than just that though. The lines main goal was to recreate timeless garments from the industrial age, and focus on the attention to detail, and to use the best freakin’ material available.
The shirt is hand-made (in Los Angeles) from a really heavy duty 12 oz sanforized Japanese denim from Kurabo Mills. With all of the threads dyed a very dark shade of indigo, this creates a really unique fading effect that I’m already starting to see after two wears.
It’s a slim-fitting work shirt with two front button pockets, with a barely visible pen holder in the left pocket. Black stitching throughout the whole shirt gives it a really tough look. This could almost be worn as light jacket, but it’s going to become a daily piece for me. You can never have enough denim, and I’m just really curious to see how much I can beat this thing up. It will bleed a little bit, so if you’re going to be wearing it as a over shirt – I would recommend that you size up, and give it a soak before you put it on over another button up.
There isn’t many of these left, so go pick one up – I promise you, you will not be disappointed. It will last you forever and just get better the more you wear it. Thanks again Karl for hooking it up, and don’t think I’ll forget about that tote. I still want one!