Tag Archives: selvedge denim

In Detail – 7/19/2012

I never really thought of my blog as a fashion blog, and the more and more I continue forward with Simple Threads, the more I realize that it isn’t. It’s just a photographic journal of well made American clothing from some amazing brands with rich history. I’m not by any means fashionable, and I honestly am fine with that. I just like to share the wear & tear of the stuff I own. To show everyone else why it’s worth the extra money for nice stuff.


Filed under Engineered Garments, Made in USA, Red Wing Boots, Rogue Territory, The Hill-Side

In Detail – 2/26/2012

Another camera, another In Detail’s post. The 5D will be back this week, and I’ve got a couple of things I’d like to shoot – so until then! This HBT (herringbone twill) camouflage hunting jacket was a flea-market find that I stumbled upon yesterday for $10 bucks. It’s vintage “Ted Williams Approved” for Sears Roebucks. I will post the details about it when I’ve got a suitable camera. It fits almost perfect, and is in great shape. I’ve loved this fabric and although there’s been a huge uprising of brands using it lately, it’s still a classic. More history behind it can be found over at ACL – so read up if you’re into that kind of stuff. Imogene + Willie Ebbet’s Field Flannels cap, Post O’alls Cruzer vest, and a Woolrich Woolen Mills Knockabout shirt is everything else I’ve got on.  I’ve been alternating between my Tellasons and these Rogue Territory Stantons’ to get them broken in before the hotter weather comes this way. And, yet again… Red Wing 8131 Moc-toes.


Filed under Ebbet's Field Flannels, Made in USA, Post Overalls, Red Wing Boots, Rogue Territory, Woolrich Woolen Mills

The Little Details: Selvedge Denim

Selvedge or selvage, either way you care to spell the word is acceptable. The terms come from “self-edge” which refers to the edge on a roll of fabric. Those colored threads you see on the selvedge outseams are actually used to help mills differentiate between fabrics. Selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle-looms, which can only produce fabric rolls that were 30 inches wide. Using the fabric rolls end to end, the selvedge lining ends up on the outseams of the jeans, leaving it visible when the denim is cuffed. When the demand for denim increased, a lot of companies abandoned the shuttle mills due to the limits on the amount of fabric it could yield – and moved to projectile looms. These projectile looms could make more denim, and make it faster – but the quality wasn’t as high as the old school methods. Cone Mills is one of the few remaining mills in the United States that is still making denim on vintage shuttle looms; and they’ve been doing it since 1905. They’re responsible for the denim used by brands like Tellason and Rogue Territory. Beyond just the traditional way of weaving the fabric, selvedge denim is of much higher quality, heavier weight, and typically dyed with natural indigo, rather than synthetic dyeing techniques. All in all, a better pair of denim that will stick around for a long time, and look better after each time you wear them.

**I know this has been covered by a lot of blogs/shops – but I wanted to share it here for my readers. The knowledge on selvedge denim is pretty universal, but if you feel I’ve copied you – feel free to shoot me an e-mail: ryan [at] simplethreads [dot] com


Filed under Denim, The Little Details

Tellason x Simple Threads Giveaway

I’ve been extremely stoked on the new 14.75oz red-line Tellason’s that are just now surfacing. What makes these unique is the fact they are constructed from an exclusive denim made just for Tellason by Cone Mills of NC. A beautiful fabric with an amazing indigo-y hue in a nice weight fabric that will definitely fade amazingly. Made in America goodness, all the way down to the buttons, rivets, and the patch made from my friends over at Tanner Goods.  There’s really not much I can say about these jeans that I haven’t already said, I just wanted to give someone a chance to own a pair of the new denim – in whatever fit, and in whatever size they want. Good luck!

The fits:

John Graham Mellor: The signature fit. Mid-rise. Slim-straight leg with a tapered opening.

Ladbroke Grove: The new mid-rise slim fitting model. Tapered opening.

Ankara Straight: A straight fit jean with more room in the thighs & the seat. Modeled after the collaboration between ACL & Tellason.

Q&A with Tony himself:

Q: The majority of your denim is sourced through Cone Mills – was it important to use a domestically produced denim for Tellason? Or was there more to it?

A: Yes and yes.  We really respect what Japanese mills create when it comes to denim fabric, there’s certainly no denying the beauty of their fabrics and the passion they put into it.  That said, it is our opinion that using US-made fabric is the right thing to do.  Not only does Cone White Oak fabric age well, it also performs really well with regard to shrinkage and stretching due to their superior sanforization (many thanks to the house of Strauss for that), but if we love the idea of the White Oak mill and it’s history, it is our duty to support it and help keep the jobs in Greensboro, NC.  Additionally, shipping fabric from Japan, either via boat or plane is very expensive and our jeans would certainly retail for significantly more if we used imported fabric.

Q: So what’s next? Anything new on the horizon?

A: Yes. As we speak, we have a denim shirt, weekender bag with Tanner Goods, and a collaboration with Smith+Butler in the works.  Our core will always be our three fits in our two fabrics, but it is fun and interesting to do these other projects.  Another, potentially very interesting project is in the beginning stages now and hopefully it will come to be every thing we hope it to be.

Q: Tellason jeans are cut & sewn right in San Francisco – where you & Pete both live – Was it important for you guys to be able to have this much visibility of your manufacturing?

A: Absolutely. We’re in the factory almost every day and have the ability to monitor every aspect of the process. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

How to enter:

  1. Follow @simplethreads on twitter
  2. Follow @tellason on twitter
  3. Follow simplethreads.tumblr.com
  4. Follow tellason.tumblr.com
  5. Retweet the following message “Tellason x Simple Threads Giveaway – http://tinyurl.com/42b74vz
  6. Reblog this post on Tumblr: http://tinyurl.com/4xn8r87
  7. Comment here with your twitter/tumblr alias so I can make sure you’re eligible.


Filed under Denim, Made in USA, Tanner Goods, Tellason, Uncategorized

Tellason “First Cuts” @ 1 month

Denim evolution at 1 month? Extremely silly. I know, but I can’t help but say these are the quickest fading jeans I have ever worn. The denim is a discontinued Cone Mills denim that Tony & Pete used for their first run of jeans. It’s a 13.75oz denim with a redish-purple hue to it, Cone labels it the “Memphis” shade. I’ll be wearing these daily until they fall apart. It’ll be really interesting to see how these look when put next to a pair of Tellason’s my pal Clark Griffiths just started wearing. Two completely different types of Cone Denim that started being worn on the same day.


Filed under Denim, Tellason

LVC 1966 501’s

The search is finally over. I have wanted to pick up a pair of pre-distressed jeans for awhile now. I love my raw Tellason’s, but every now and then I do enjoy a different shade of indigo. I came about a pair of LVC 1966 501’s in a 34×34 and decided to try them out. The fit is a classic 501 straight leg, with a slightly tapered hem. They’re constructed from a 14oz Cone Mills red line selvedge denim with a lot of awesome vintage details that are historically accurate for that year in jeans. The 1966 model of the 501 symbolizes the first year that Levi’s finally started using bar tack’s rather than rivets on the back pockets of their jeans. This was done to stop blue jeans from scratching furniture once the rivet became exposed. These jeans also have the big “E” on the red tab, which was done away with four years later. The back pockets have the sewn in double arcuate, which is far from perfect looking – this was done to show the use of a single needle sewing machine. The wash on these shows a beautifully worn in pair of blue jeans, and how amazing Cone Mills denim fades over time. I am even more stoked to have my Tellason’s look like these someday.


Filed under Denim, Levi's

RRL Jeans & Stratford Work Jacket

This is not a women’s fashion blog, but I do have an appreciation for anything that’s well made – and these fit that bill. Here are two new RRL pieces my girlfriend picked up. Both made in the USA with superb attention to detail. The jeans are the RRL “Boy Fit” 12oz selvedge denim in a size 24, and the jacket is the Stratford Work jacket, made from a 13oz selvedge denim. Enjoy the photos.


Filed under RRL